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Namibia
048roadtonhoma

July 2013 - 260 kilometers out to Nhoma near the Botswana border on this dirt road

July 2013 - 260 kilometers out to Nhoma near the Botswana border on this dirt road

049nhomatentoutside

Home sweet home for 3 nights

Home sweet home for 3 nights

050nhomatentinside

Classic South African made safari tent with en suite bath. Notice our dusty suitcases from the dirt roads

Classic South African made safari tent with en suite bath. Notice our dusty suitcases from the dirt roads

053arnolaurieguide

Laurie, Arno, and Kendrick, our San (bushman) guide

Laurie, Arno, and Kendrick, our San (bushman) guide

051roadkill

Found this springbok carcass while driving to our hunting grounds early morning

Found this springbok carcass while driving to our hunting grounds early morning

052roadkillblood

The blood stains showed where a pack of wild dogs caught the springbok in the night, then dragged it 5 yards where they killed it, then dragged the carcass 10 yards away

The blood stains showed where a pack of wild dogs caught the springbok in the night, then dragged it 5 yards where they killed it, then dragged the carcass 10 yards away

054roadkillknifejoint

Cutting up the bones for roasting

Cutting up the bones for roasting

057sansitbyfire3

Preparing the fire

Preparing the fire

056allbones

What looks like useless scraps to us is a feast for them, after knocking the dust off of it

What looks like useless scraps to us is a feast for them, after knocking the dust off of it

055headonfire

The roasted head would be taken back to the village to make soup

The roasted head would be taken back to the village to make soup

058saneatmarrow

Crackin' open the bones to eat the protein rich marrow

Crackin' open the bones to eat the protein rich marrow

060hitbird

The little black bird in the tree is attracted to fire. I thought there was no way he could...

The little black bird in the tree is attracted to fire. I thought there was no way he could...

061holdbird

But he smacked him with the stick- he's still alive and flapping his wings

But he smacked him with the stick- he's still alive and flapping his wings

062snapbirdneck

Until he snaps its neck and

Until he snaps its neck and

064birdinfire

pops him in the fire. This tiny morsel ended up back at the village with the springbok head

pops him in the fire. This tiny morsel ended up back at the village with the springbok head

066sanwalkstart

After a breakfast of champions we head off to hunt for spring hare

After a breakfast of champions we head off to hunt for spring hare

067polehare

Futilely sticking really long sticks down their burrows in an attempt to snag one

Futilely sticking really long sticks down their burrows in an attempt to snag one

069walkeatberries

Their gathering endeavors consisted of snapping off a branch of hard, bitter "berries"

Their gathering endeavors consisted of snapping off a branch of hard, bitter "berries"

071makefire2

Making fire with 2 sticks

Making fire with 2 sticks

072makefire3

After 3 of them took turns spinning the stick rapidly, a burning ember appeared

After 3 of them took turns spinning the stick rapidly, a burning ember appeared

073makefire4

Voila!

Voila!

076manheadbandcu

Is that a coke bottle falling from a plane?

Is that a coke bottle falling from a plane?

074maketrap

And now for our next trick, we'll make a snare to trap anything that happens by.
Here he's separating the fibers from a succulent's leaves

And now for our next trick, we'll make a snare to trap anything that happens by.
Here he's separating the fibers from a succulent's leaves

079maketrap3

Then twisting the fibers to make twine

Then twisting the fibers to make twine

081maketrap4

Setting the trap by connecting the twine to a tasty nut stuck in the ground

Setting the trap by connecting the twine to a tasty nut stuck in the ground

082maketrap5

Now just add some sticks to hold the twine that will snag a leg or snout

Now just add some sticks to hold the twine that will snag a leg or snout

083maketrap6

The finished product

The finished product

075oldmansunglass

He really wanted my sunglasses - sorry Pops!

He really wanted my sunglasses - sorry Pops!

077tonyand4san

I really enjoyed hangin' with these blokes and watching them do their hunter gatherer thing. Laurie was such a trooper and hung tough for her wacky husband!

I really enjoyed hangin' with these blokes and watching them do their hunter gatherer thing. Laurie was such a trooper and hung tough for her wacky husband!

080headshot

This dude might be illiterate, but his knowledge is vast. The young men in his village are too lazy to learn how to live off of the land, so this way of life is quickly dying out. They don't need to - the gov't gives them plenty of cornmeal for free.

This dude might be illiterate, but his knowledge is vast. The young men in his village are too lazy to learn how to live off of the land, so this way of life is quickly dying out. They don't need to - the gov't gives them plenty of cornmeal for free.

084dighole

So we're out in the middle of nowhere and this guy starts digging

So we're out in the middle of nowhere and this guy starts digging

085pullroot

And pulls out this honkin' tuber

And pulls out this honkin' tuber

086scraperoot1

Let the scraping begin

Let the scraping begin

087scraperoot2

Heaps of moist fleshy muck

Heaps of moist fleshy muck

089scraperoot4

Now squeeze hard and let the bitter juice run down your thumb and voila -
the world's least refreshing drink

Now squeeze hard and let the bitter juice run down your thumb and voila -
the world's least refreshing drink

090waterrootplant

I asked him to show us which type of plant it was. He found one nearby and circled it. Such a tiny plant made that!

I asked him to show us which type of plant it was. He found one nearby and circled it. Such a tiny plant made that!

093sanbuttwalk

Off we go again

Off we go again

092lauriewalkwithsan

It's hot as hell! I can't believe you made me do this! You owe me! Yes dear - I love you baby!

It's hot as hell! I can't believe you made me do this! You owe me! Yes dear - I love you baby!

094dighare

Another fruitless attempt at a spring hare

Another fruitless attempt at a spring hare

096san4walkback

Our posse (we kept our pants on)

Our posse (we kept our pants on)

097san2walkbush

I felt like I was in one of those National Geographic specials I saw since I was a kid

I felt like I was in one of those National Geographic specials I saw since I was a kid

106groupofpeople

Back at the village - chillin' round the fire at dusk (they do a lot of that)

Back at the village - chillin' round the fire at dusk (they do a lot of that)

104womancu

Life expectancy averages 45-50 years old. She's 49

Life expectancy averages 45-50 years old. She's 49

103babycu

They start making babies in their early teens and average 5-7 kids each.
50% will die before they reach 15 years old, 20% will die in their first year

They start making babies in their early teens and average 5-7 kids each.
50% will die before they reach 15 years old, 20% will die in their first year

105boysplaysunset
111waterbottlesbed

It was cozy having hot water bottles placed under our blankets while at dinner.
It got really cold at night so this was a nice touch

It was cozy having hot water bottles placed under our blankets while at dinner.
It got really cold at night so this was a nice touch

112carsandroad

Driving along a sandy road the next morning. Here we were hundreds of kilometers
from the nearest paved road. It really felt like we had gotten away from it all -
indeed we were in the middle of bloody nowhere and loving it!

Driving along a sandy road the next morning. Here we were hundreds of kilometers
from the nearest paved road. It really felt like we had gotten away from it all -
indeed we were in the middle of bloody nowhere and loving it!

113sanwalklaurie

And then Arno stops the car and we start walking from the middle of nowhere and just head out into the bush. This time we're going porcupine hunting.

And then Arno stops the car and we start walking from the middle of nowhere and just head out into the bush. This time we're going porcupine hunting.

115burntquills

Burnt quills from a past hunt (they roast the porcupine to get the quills off before transporting back to the village

Burnt quills from a past hunt (they roast the porcupine to get the
quills off before transporting back to the village

116porcupinehole

They dug this hole with their hands and axes in order to stab the porcupine in the head. It takes 2 - 3 hours to dig a hole like this. Same technology for eons

They dug this hole with their hands and axes in order to stab the porcupine in the head. It takes 2 - 3 hours to dig a hole like this. Same technology for eons

117laurietree

Laurie in front of a Magetti nut tree

Laurie in front of a Magetti nut tree

119lauriearnoswife

Laurie with Arno's wife Estelle at their private waterhole that attracts elephants nightly

Laurie with Arno's wife Estelle at their private waterhole that attracts elephants nightly

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020springbokside

July 2013 - The ubiquitous Springbok in Etosha National Park (autoplay)

July 2013 - The ubiquitous Springbok in Etosha National Park (autoplay)

021gemsbok

Gemsbok or Oryx. Their horns grow up to 3 feet long

Gemsbok or Oryx. Their horns grow up to 3 feet long

022waterhole

Waterhole out by the Etosha Pan (salt flat)

Waterhole out by the Etosha Pan (salt flat)

023waterhole

Waterhole right next to our lodge in the park - the scene was constantly
changing with different animals coming and going every few minutes

Waterhole right next to our lodge in the park - the scene was constantly
changing with different animals coming and going every few minutes

024goshawk

African Goshawks eat other birds, small mammals, and lizards

African Goshawks eat other birds, small mammals, and lizards

025zebraheadlook

Although they may appear to be badly camouflaged, when in a herd, the zebra’s stripes merge into a big mass and make it hard for predators to single out individual animals

Although they may appear to be badly camouflaged, when in a herd, the zebra’s stripes merge into a big mass and make it hard for predators to single out individual animals

etosharhino

Black rhino - Black rhinos have pointed lips while white rhinos have square shaped lips. White can weigh up to 3 tons while black top out at just over 2 tons

Black rhino - Black rhinos have pointed lips while white rhinos have square shaped lips. White can weigh up to 3 tons while black top out at just over 2 tons

027honeybadger

Honey Badger don't give a ... watch Youtube hit here (language warning)

028elephantholereflextion

The elephants in Etosha can drink up to 50 gallons of water a day!

The elephants in Etosha can drink up to 50 gallons of water a day!

029peopleatwaterhole

Early morning scene at a waterhole. We were there during the dry season, so all the animals have to go to one to get a drink - the lazy man's safari!

Early morning scene at a waterhole. We were there during the dry season, so all the animals have to go to one to get a drink - the lazy man's safari!

030zebrasreflextion
031impalareflextion

Impala buck - enough reflections for ya?

Impala buck - enough reflections for ya?

032uspan

We drove out onto the Etosha pan

We drove out onto the Etosha pan

033lauriepanlook

Laurie watching imaginary wildlife next to our Daihatsu 4X4

Laurie watching imaginary wildlife next to our Daihatsu 4X4

034impala3

Impalas can run at 50 miles an hour, about 10 miles an hour less than a cheetah

Impalas can run at 50 miles an hour, about 10 miles an hour less than a cheetah

035kudubullbush

Kudu bull

Kudu bull

036kudubulldrink

They can weigh up to 800 lbs. and have horns as long as 72 inches

They can weigh up to 800 lbs. and have horns as long as 72 inches

038yellowhornbill

Yellow Hornbills feed mainly on the ground, where they
forage for seeds, small insects, spiders and scorpions

Yellow Hornbills feed mainly on the ground, where they
forage for seeds, small insects, spiders and scorpions

039elephantsonroad3

Traffic jam Etosha style

Traffic jam Etosha style

040oneelephantonroadside

Some are bloody huge - males get up to 10 feet tall and 16,000 lbs.

Some are bloody huge - males get up to 10 feet tall and 16,000 lbs.

042giraffes3onehurt

Notice anything odd about the giraffe on the right?

Notice anything odd about the giraffe on the right?

043giraffehurtcu

His jaw was ripped open by a predator and he was ostracized by the others.
Since he couldn't eat or drink, his days were numbered

His jaw was ripped open by a predator and he was ostracized by the others.
Since he couldn't eat or drink, his days were numbered

etosharhino2
044lauriesunbehind

The fort at Halali, Etosha

The fort at Halali, Etosha

045tonysunset
047dikdik

Dik diks get their name from the sound they make when alerting others to danger

Dik diks get their name from the sound they make when alerting others to danger

120hakusembe1

July 2013 - We then drove back to the main road and then north to the Caprivi Strip.
This is Hakusembe River Lodge

July 2013 - We then drove back to the main road and then north to the Caprivi Strip.
This is Hakusembe River Lodge

121hakusembe2

On the banks of the Okavango River. The opposite bank is Angola

On the banks of the Okavango River. The opposite bank is Angola

123ontheroad

Hundreds of kilometers of driving on tar roads through game
reserves in the Caprivi with lots of "Elephant Crossing" signs

Hundreds of kilometers of driving on tar roads through game
reserves in the Caprivi with lots of "Elephant Crossing" signs

127mazambala3

A boat took us to Mazambala Island Lodge

A boat took us to Mazambala Island Lodge

124mazambala1

For our last night in Namibia

For our last night in Namibia

125mazambala2

Great food and a nice place to chill

Great food and a nice place to chill

126cdeck

Observation deck at Mazambala

Observation deck at Mazambala

126amazamdeck

View from the top

View from the top

126mazambalalaurie

Our last waterhole viewing in Namibia

Our last waterhole viewing in Namibia

126btonydeck
127acaprivivillage

Village in Caprivi on the road to Botswana

Village in Caprivi on the road to Botswana